Mongolia

20.08.2018
The apartment we rented is quite warm but nice and spacious. We all had a lay in today.
After breakfast we walked around town and did some sightseeing. There isn’t that much to see and the National Museum of History was the best. I didn’t know that the Empire of Chinggis Khaan was the largest in the world. Also, that Mongolia was involved in the second World War in helping Russia against the Nazis.
We went to Pizza Hut and later to a Restaurant run by an Austrian guy and his Mongolian wife.
And after walking around for quite a few kilometres today we managed, with the help of the Austrian guy, to find the Souvenir shop. We all bought some stuff there but not too much cause there is just not enough space on the bikes.
At the moment the guys are writing some postcards to send home and I’m sitting here taking note for the blog. Just three more weeks until we get home again, way too soon for me…

 

19.08.2018
Nice to sleep on a proper mattress again and being able to have actually a hot shower which has enough pressure and doesn’t change it or the temperature 🙂
Looking forward to breakfast now…
We also have the opportunity to take a car to the Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue. The Statue btw is 40 meters high and the visitors centre has 36 columns which representing the 36 khans from Chinggis Khaan to Ligdan Khaan.
Depends how long it takes to clean/fix Max’s bike – the radiator grill is blocked and so the bike overheads when he rides to aggressive.
The “Mechanics” from the Riverpoint Lodge damaged the wheel bearing so Chris had to change it again today luckily, he had another one with him.
As it turned out was the thermostat broken on Max’s bike, so he disabled it and now the bike doesn’t overhead anymore.
The ride to the statue was tedious. There is only one road (sometimes you could call it something else) and for about 20 km there’s a traffic jam by maniac drivers. Great! They overtake on both sides even when cars coming the other way and we’re in the middle of it. At some point I lost Max and Chris because thy overtake a lot faster and more aggressive than me. But as always, they waited for the old man and then we carried on together. Having said that I almost lost hem again…
After 1,5 hours we found our apartment which we have rented for 2 nights. It costs $101 for those two nights which is good and we’re right in the city centre. The guy who rents his flat to us had two friends with him. They are really nice and we could even park our bikes in a garage. Also, he made us coffee and we finally had some sheep’s head (Mongolian delicacy). I thought we had manged to miss it but nope 🙂 Today there’s no hot water so I had a rather quick shower – brrr
Max and Chris are on their way to KFC (they’re always hungry) and I’m blogging again. Can you find the error here? 😀 Jokes aside, I wanted to stay behind.
Unfortunately it seems that Chris gas lost a document from the Mongolian Customs. So tomorrow we’re first of to the German Embassy to check what he has to do to regain it because otherwise they won’t let him leave the country. I’m sure he is not the first or the last one with that problem because you get a lot of papers at the customs, some of you they take of you before you leave the customs area and others you have to carry with you until you leave the country. Welcome to the 18th  oops I mean the 21st century!

Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue – Entrance

Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue – Yes I was there 🙂

Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue

Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue

Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue

Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue

Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue – The whip is a sign of his power

Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue – welcome to Mongolia

 

18.08.2018
We’re at the River Point Lodge East from Ulaanbaatar which is run by an Austrian guy. A lot of travellers are staying here, mostly bikers.
The way to this place was okay for except that we had to fix Chris’s bike again. This time the right whelk baring was damaged after roughly 100000 km. Not bad for the old girl 🙂
We could not fix it properly but managed to get to the Lodge. Here it was fixed (at least we thought that) so we can carry on tomorrow to the Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue and then Ulaanbaatar where we’ll stay one or two nights. While trying to fix the bike being on the road we had stopped by a Ger and the owner had invited us in. We had to try some milky water, bread and some homemade chees. The milk tasted a bit like the traditional soup you get here and the chees was very hard but tasted pretty good.
I would have liked to stay here another day at the Lodge because a lot of interesting people are here but we don’t have another day to stay, so I have been told by my two friends. In one way I guess they have a point that we have to carry on but their decision is mainly based because they in a hurry to get home. But I’m not!
Anyway, Max needs to clean/fix his radiator grill which could take a while.
It was really nice to have some proper food again and some “normal” people to talk to.
We met some cool guys and shared our stories.
If you’re ever in Ulaanbaatar you should come here – Riverpoint Lodge. Careful with the name cause is also a Riverside Lodge not too far away from here!

 

17.08.2018
At night I tried to take some more pictures of the Milky Way. This time I think there better, well I hope so because it was the last chance to do so on this trip cause the light pollution is much too high on our way back.
The ride back to Dalanzadgad was a little shorter today because we could use the normal road again since t was mainly dry again.
We said goodbye to our really nice driver, got rooms for another night, our motorbike gear and also our bikes back. I just repacked my stuff and now I’m blogging…

Milky Way

Milky Way

 

16.08.2018
Last night we got a note saying that the driver wouldn’t be at the hotel at 08:00 and that we should go to the Information Centre. We did and now we’re leaving at 10:00
We were told that we get a car called White hummer. We’ll, it is actually a white hummer H3 🙂 A woman picked us up and switched with her husband at the petrol station. I can’t pronounce his name or even spell it.
The tarmac is nice except for some parts where the road is just half gone through the bad weather. It took us about 5 hours to get to the Ger Camp. The ride was here and there quite bumpy and we all agreed that American just can’t build cars 😉
Anyhow we’re gonna relax a bit and then take some camels to the sand dune.
Before dinner we took the car to some smaller dunes and after dinner we’ll go to the big one. At dinner we’ve met a Swiss guy. He bought two horses and rode two weeks through Mongolia. After the two weeks he sold them again. Crazy but a cool idea!
The big one is about 300 meters high and everybody is trying to get zup there for the view.
I’ve made it up in about 35 minutes and I’m quite proud of myself if I may say so 😉 Puffing and pounding but I’ve made it. The view was quite something since I’ve never been on a sand Dune before.

 

Khongoryn Els – A nice contrast

sand pattern

Khongoryn Els

Khongoryn Els

Khongoryn Els

Khongoryn Els

Khongoryn Els – let’s go it’s only 300 meters high and in some places 70% steep

Khongoryn Els – back down

 

15.08.2018
Hat not such a good night so I send Max and Chris on their own to that Canyon. I stayed in bed, put the please do not disturb sign on my door and tried to sleep a few more hours. Well, I managed a few more minutes. Now I need to rearrange my stuff for our trip to the sand dune.
According to Christof and Maximilian the canyon was okay so I didn’t mint that I missed it. Altogether we had a lazy day but we managed to put our luggage in a spare room and our bikes are in the hotels garage.
Looking forward to the sand dune. Our ride their will take longer though because of the rain we have to take a longer route.I’m also looking forward to being driven there 🙂

 

14.08.2018
This must have been the hardest bed I had to sleep on so far but I slept quit well on the wooden board with a thick carpet on top. Can you guess what we didn’t have this morning or last night? Correct a shower…
But that doesn’t matter we’ll get as far as Dalanzadgad today and their we’ll take a proper hotel again. Yesterday we had to ride through Ulaanbaatar to get to the road which takes us south. It looked okay but all I want to do there is go to the Hard Rock Cafe to get a T-Shirt and see the Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue outside of Ulaanbaatar.
When we stopped for a break we managed to find a really nice Restaurant which surfed actually something else than that traditional Mongolian food which is a welcoming change.
Not so nice was the sight of lots of animal skins pinned to the just outside of a petrol station.
The ride to Dalanzadgad is on mostly good tarmac but partly quite windy. The scenery looks most of the time the same just the temperature is rising as further south we get. It’s been a while since we had 33 degrees Celsius. Dalanzadgad is a little town in the south of Mongolia and not that far of the border to China, roughly 250 km. While walking around we found the Tourist Information (a first) and after two phone calls I arranged a car with driver to take us to that big sand dune Khongoryn Els. A night in Ger Camp is also included and that all for about 60€ per person.
In the south you’ll find more tourism than in the north and Edeka seems to be delivering a fair amount of food to here. I the shops you’ll find mainly alcohol and sweets (really big bags of it). So, we bought some German food for us, went to a Hotel room (Max and Chris’s) and ate 🙂

Germany (Edeka) is everywhere

Guten

 

Erdene Zuu Monastery

Erdene Zuu Monastery

Erdene Zuu Monastery

Erdene Zuu Monastery

Erdene Zuu Monastery

 

13.08.2018
Late start cause the Restaurant didn’t open until 09:00 on a Sunday. Max is not feeling well again. All tarmac but we have to pay 500 Mnt Maut.
The roads are good with some surprises (holes, cut out tarmac)
So far sunny with lots of white puffy clouds.
The rest of the day was good. When stopped and laid in the shad of our bikes a van stopped and gave us a water melon. Just like that. Maybe my faith can be restored!?
What is still enjoying is that they have to touch everything. As I found out did someone not only touch my helmet and camera he also changed my settings, which is really enjoying because I can not go back and film those moments again. I hope he gets the shits!
Anyhow we’re staying in a Ger Camp again. We even get food tonight, tomorrow and a hot (we’ll warm) shower.
Oh, we are in Hahorin right next to the Erdene Zuu Monastery which we’ll look at tomorrow.
At the Ger Camp we met three older men Klaus (Marketing) , Peter (Cook) and Eckberd and Wife Lisa and another Lisa (a nurse from Fürth). Klaus, Peter and Eckberd are working here through the SES (Senior Experts Service) as a kind of support worker to teach other what they know. It’s voluntary work and I think I’ll take a look at it when I’m 55 cause it sound great. They also have a new program for people over 35.
Shame we couldn’t talk any longer to any of them. In particular I would have liked to talk to Lisa a bit more because she seems to travel a lot and seemed rather interesting…
Maybe we’ll come as far as Ulaanbaatar tomorrow…

 

12.08.2018
Wow, we had a proper Breakfast for ages, even with Toast.
I wonder why they don’t have running water in the toilets all the time??
The Monastery was, how should I say, okay I guess. Nothing special and I fear that the rest of those coming attractions are on the same level.
Tomorrow we should get to Dalanzadgad.
I can’t get over this people here! Not only that a lot of them just sit at the side of the road and do their business, no they also just through their empty plastic bottles out of the car window.
I know they are not all like that but you do see that a lot…

 

11.08.2018
Max and me have stomach problems (we both had a bad night), we think it’s from yesterday’s lunch. After breakfast Christof went shopping and found German Liver sausage and dark bred – yeah Chris for President 😀
Later we’ll go to a Garage and fix our bikes and then just relaxing. Tomorrow, hopefully with better weather, we’ll ride to that Monastery. I’m still not sure how much further I’ll ride but one thing I know, I’ll never ever ride in a group again. As human beings we fit well together but our kind of riding is just too different. It’s not the guys fault except that they don’t stick to what we agreed on when we met (riding not too fast and taking enough breaks). But I guess if I could ride faster I would do that too.
It’s just that I enjoy riding in a group but the way it’s been working for weeks and weeks by now I’m mostly riding on my own… Well we all learn and I learned my lesson here!

No pics here cause it’s just flooded roads…

A friend just told me that I don’t sound too happy on my blog. Well it’s a rollercoaster ride for me and its tough to ride here because we didn’t take the normal route most people do. If you ride all day on really bad roads with painful knees and every so often you also get wet then you’re not a happy chocolate frog. My blog resembles exactly that, the way I feel right there and then. It doesn’t mean I’m unhappy all the time 😉
Some of the other countries were partly difficult but Mongolia is more difficult than I ever thought. The weird thing is that everybody who has done a ride like this is saying that too.
But all over I’m very happy to be here and I’m grateful that I have the opportunity to do a ride like that!
Thanks Dell for pointing it out to me 🙂
I’ll try and sound more positive in future…

 

10.08.2018
I took some pics at night which turned out quite nice (for a first try I think they ok).
Max woke up with back pain so we rode a little slower. Now we know why everybody is taking the Northern route through the mountains and not the original South route. There is a river which after the rain from the last few days is almost impossible to cross.
Of course, some little pick waits with his tractor for you and wants 150.000 Mnt (52€).
We took another route north. Boy we should have not left that road yesterday. So for a route that should have taken us three days we’re gonna need three or four.
I decided to go the direct route to Ulaanbaatar. I have enough of this beautiful country with its ignorant and uneducated people. Through this difficult and intensive riding, I have seen more and experienced more than what I have seen in three holidays, so I decided for now to skip some of the south of Mongolia.
Fell hard again and this time my right mirror broke off. Other things are just bend I’ll see to them tomorrow.
First some food!
This road is making me crazy and my keens are hurting like mad. I just want the day to end! For some reason we have to get to Bayanhkongor. I would have preferred to stop and camp or at least take a break but this seems to not possible. After a chat with Max and Christof we decide to take the road to Ulaanbaatar because its tarmacked and visit a Monastery.
Max has quite bad Backpain and doesn’t want to carry on over this shit roads and neither do Chris or I.

No way past this puddle

In the last few days there are always clouds in the evening that are usually followed by rain

Our Milky Way

Our Milky Way

Our Milky Way

 

09.08.2018
After a noisy night and some weird dreams I had a slow start. Somehow is my stuff getting more or my cloth is having babies because it doesn’t want to fit in my bags anymore 🙂
Anyway, we bought some supplies, mainly water, filled up with petrol and headed for Bayanhkongor.
We rode on really nice tarmac for the first 150 km or so, then the road split and we should have taken a right but we stayed on tarmac. About 20 km in Chris’s rack system broke again.
After a little debate we drove back and got caught in rain. At the moment we’re at a small service station and taking a break.
Every time when you think it’s getting better Mongolia Buttfucks you 🙂
I guess we’re at the rim of the Gobi Desert because we had some sand parts but they weren’t large. Maybe I’m getting better in riding it, well that is what I hope cause there’s more to come.
My knees hurt today quite a bit but it can’t be just my age because Max is complaining too.
We’re camping in the middle of nowhere. For the last five hours we haven’t seen a soul. OK we saw a herd of camels 🙂
In whatever direction you look you can only see the horizon. There is nothing blocking your view…

Nobody anywhere, just some Camels

A wide country

 

08.08.2018
Today is just relaxing and blogging for me. Chris and Max are going to get their bikes welded. Chris his Rack System and Max his mirrors cause they both fell off.
Tomorrow we’re riding to Bayankhongor which is about 390 km away. After this we’re going further south to visit a few sights (Gobi Gurvansaikhan National Park – Khongoryn Els sand dunes are said to sing when the wind blows, the ice field of Yolyn Am Caynon and and the “Flaming Cliffs” of Bayanzag) and ride through a small part of the Gobi desert.
Some Gobi facts:
– Second largest desert in the world
– Size: 2.3 million km² (still crowing)
– Extreme dry
– Embodies Dunes, Mountains and Salt lakes
– Temperatures vary from -40 to 50 Degrees Celsius which makes her the coldest desert in the world
In short: a fun place to be 😀

 

07.08.2018
The road, like a lot of roads on our map, was marked as prepared for Tarmac. I guess they fell behind like on so many roads 😀  The 150km to Altai were mostly easy to ride, some sandy parts (yuck) but otherwise ok.
If was really happy when we finally reached the main southern route because it’s tarmacked – Yippie Ki Yay
Most cars you see around are SUVs (Land Cruiser, Lexus, etc.) with V6 or V8 engines. I’m not sure how many rich people are living in Mongolia but there must be a few. Most people are riding small motorbikes or old cars. We reached Altai (the town not the region).
It still strikes me how little education people have here. Our rooms cost 75000 Mnt (Mongolian Tenge) which is about 26€ per night and so I gave her 150000 Mnt because we’re staying two nights. She took the calculator to verify this. I know it’s not her fault in a way but it’s still shocking!
Since we had no shower for the last 6 days we took a nice hotel. Even Max wanted a single room 🙂  And I washed myself twice, just to make sure I was clean again 😀

The main road to Altai

 

06.08.2018
Just talked to Ben and Allyson because they’re leaving soon. Ben gave me his details and we try and catch up in Ulaanbaatar in a few weeks’ time.
After 3 small streams and another rain shower with some hailstones we’re in Ogton.
There are two road going out. On to the west one to the south. Normally we would take the west road to Altai but with this shit weather we want as fast as possible out if this mountain region and the south road is 10 km shorter. We went for the Western route still because the weather looked better that way. And we were right 🙂
The new rack mounting system from Chris’s bike broke so he has to ride a little slower now. Tomorrow we should get to Altai where we should be able to get it welded. And hopefully we’ll be able to finally have a shower again because it’s been six days now without one.
We camped at a really nice spot not too far away from the road to Altai. A father with his son came by on a horse. I put the child on my bike what he, going by his facial expression, really enjoyed.
We tried to start a fire bit the pieces of wood was too wet and there are hardly any trees around. Just on the top of the hills are some but mainly the land is “just” filled with green hills.

Father and son on a short visit

Making the beamer looking good 🙂

It’s getting late

Another sun set

 

05.08.2018
Nikki, I did not forget your birthday, I just had no cell service for the last 4 days.
Happy birthday my favourite godchild.

The morning looked okay and not long after we had started to ride we met a Mongolian with his family in two cars. He congratulated us that we had come this far because we had taken one of Mongolia’s most difficult roads (don’t call us fools, if we had known, we wouldn’t have chosen this road). He ought to know, he lives here!
Now we’re at a place where we have to cross a river (the last one) over three islands to reach the other side. Max and Chris are talking about if it might be possible to cross the river further north but we all doubt that it’s going to be a better one because between the hills is the same amount of water but in less space (so its deeper). Just to make sure they rode about 2 km further north to check the crossing and I stayed behind with the luggage and wait for their return. Of course, there was no better way but we still doubt that we’ll make it. It’s just so deep and the current is quite strong too. Max took a look further upstream and found a “easier” way.
All together we crossed 2 rivers with 3 or 4 of their arms today and some bog land. Because it had rained the last two days the rivers carried more water than normally and we had to go through knee deep water. The last crossing took us about 1.5 hours. FUCK YEAH we did it!!!
Each bike we walked through the rivers without their luggage which we had to carry over before so, every crossing meant several times though that deep and rather cold water. Next time I buy Sealskin socks so a least my feed would stay dry.
I don’t remember ever being this exhausted. When we finally reached the Ger Camp I was getting cold and my hands started to feel like I had them put in snow. While Max and Chris cooked I laid in my sleeping bag trying to get warm again.
Earlier on Max had met an Australian (Ben) while looking for a way to cross the last river. Ben and his wife Allyson are also staying at the Ger Camp. He works in the mining industry (safety) and has been almost 7 years in Mongolia. Through him we managed to put our boots next to a fireplace because our “house” has none. Hopefully they mostly try tomorrow.

Trying to dry our boots

Ben and his wife Allyson get their car tyres blessed with milk

The part from Tsahkir to almost Uliastai is one of the most difficult roads of Mongolia. You should not ride this on your own!

 

04.08.2018
This morning the weather looked good just some clouds in the sky but boy did that change later. Because we’re at about 2400 meters the sun is, when she is shining, quite strong early on. The roads had already dried up from the downpour from yesterday and so it was okay to ride.
Right now, I am laying in my tent again and listen to the storm. It’s even worse than yesterday. My tent is moving quite a lot and I hope that the pegs stay in the ground.
The way here wasn’t easy, we rode alongside a river and had to cross him or one of its side arms many times. In one of them I dropped my bike (everybody did today) and in another one we had to pull me a few meters back so could get out (the beamer is just to heavy). On top of that we had to ride over a mountain pass accompanied by rain and hailstones. The way down was rather slippery but not as bad as when we reached the bottom cause there it turned to soap. All together we did today only 45 km today.
I know this will be a story to tell but right now I’d prefer not to having to do it. Our cloths are so wet that they won’t get dry in the next few days. In my boots you could go for a swim.
Mam, can I have the wet cloth incl. some not so stinky socks for tomorrow please…
Some stats for the road from Tsahkir to Uliastai:
– 16 river crossings in 4 days
– 2 rivers crossings took us over 1 hour each
– twice rain
– twice rain with hailstones
– two thunderstorms at night
– 6 days no shower
– 4 days no cell service
– 3 days riding with dump/wet cloth

Chris takes a break

A river to cross

One more please my feet are not cold and wet enough yet

 

03.8.2018
Not a great night cause somebody had a party and guess who was attending? Yep, Max and Chris got invited by our hotel room neighbour. Weird that nobody thought of me…
I never understood that alcohol mentality and the need to get drunk but I guess I can’t understand everything… Anyway, because they had a little too much Vodka I have to wait until they had enough sleep. So much for getting up at 07:00 😀
The Mongolian family gave them bananas, blueberries, a zucchini, tomatoes and eggs. Oh, and some strong Vodka. The girl is living with her German boyfriend in London and the father is the trainer from the national Mongolian swimming team. There is a lake close by and in some German film from 1978 somebody tried to swim across the lake but didn’t manage because it was too cold. So, the father did it anyway and local people put a statue up for him.
The weather is looking nice and according to the weather forecast there should be no more rain. I like that and hopefully most of the road has dried up.
We left around 11:00 I think. The first part of the ride was on tarmac again but soon we turned of on to a small unpaved road. After a while the road disappeared in to the river we follow for the next three days. I got stuck several times and the pressure point of my clutch seemed to be moving. I thought BMW had sorted that out but I was wrong. After a lot of swearing on my part I got through. Unfortunately, was the river so deep that the water run into my left boot. We took a short break, had some food and dried tour socks in the sun. The next river crossings were actually okay and I started to have some fun.
Now I’m laying in my tent and listen to the rain that caught us. There was even some thunder and lightning while we put our tents up and got wet because we weren’t fast enough. Since our last hotel had no shower we had one now, a little cold though and with cloth our on. To be honest I would have preferred a warm one! On occasions like this I’m happy I’ve got a two-man tent so you’ve got enough space for everything.
Oh, this part of Mongolia looks like Scotland and it’s wet too. Those damn this Brits are everywhere 😀
The usual visitors came by and said hello. We agreed to have a late start so we have a chance to try our stuff in the sun.

Rocky road

Not just the hills from Scotland are here, also the weather

 

02.08.2018
Got up an hour early at 06:00 and sorted my stuff which was good cause I saw Christian again before he left. He is going to ride 400 km today, 250 of those are off-road. Good luck!
We talked about the route he is taking today and why he is travelling on his own. He has gone through what I’m going through at the moment. I think his experience was worse than mine but the result is the same.
I was already finished with everything by the time Max and Chris got up. We had Omelette which took about 45 minutes. Did I mention that the Mongolian people are not the fastest!?
A lot of them are quite ignorant too. But as Volker Pispers has always said: An asshole is nothing more than an asshole.
If you never heard of him he is one of the best cabaret artist Germany has to over and sadly taking brake at the moment after 33 years of showbiz but his last show (Bis neulich 2015) you can find on that video channel.
This has nothing to do with ethnic or religion cause there is an race called assholes and they are everywhere!
Anyway we left around 10:00 I believe and after a short 3 hour ride we reached our destination for today. The town Tariat is very close to an old Volcano Chris wanted to visit. The ride was nice except for some rain.
Another hotel without a shower, running hot water, (cold is available) and the toilet outside. That the toilet is outside is not so bad because there are just holes in the ground with a little wooden house over it and a hole in the floor. I will not post a picture because it’s disgusting but the “sitting” position is natural and better then our westernised way. Anyway when you step out of the hotel there is always….how shall I put it?….a foul stench in the air 🙂
Max and Chris did some adjustment work on Max’s bike and now they’re off to ride to the Khorgo Uul Volcano. I decided to stay behind to do some blogging. I hope their having fun!
I woke up through the sound of the rain. Not sure how long I slept but not to long after Max and Chris came back from their Volcano visit. It was OK they said but nothing majorly impressive. The roads to the volcano and a close by cave where partly quite slippery (wonder where I read that before), so slippery that Chris dropped his bike. They also had to cross a small river. I’m glade I stayed behind. I had  guessed that it’s nothing overly impressive because so far those “extractions” where not that great.
The next two days we probably going to camp cause we talking a very small road. Not sure why because the detour on much better roads would only be 100 km more.

A sacred place

 

01.8.2018
It has been raining almost all night and from 5 or so everybody went to the toilet. Some make noises like pics. Oh, guess whose room is right next to it and the door has to be shut with force otherwise it won’t stay closed. Great, wonderful, splendid… Careful some sentences could contain traces of sarcasm…
Anyhow I got up and started slowly to pack my stuff because it’s only 6:15 am. The rain should make some of those sandy road parts easier to ride on but also make other road surfaces a bit slippery.
Sounds almost like a LP from Bon Jovi (can anybody guess which one?)
Lets see what the day brings us…
Well the day didn’t bring a lot cause we stayed in the hotel for another day. It rained so much that we didn’t want to go. Yesterday when we walked through town we met a Romanian biker (Christian).  He gave us some important information about the route ahead of us and told us a great story.
He drove to Magadan the road of bones. On the way there he had some problems with it fork seals. He got in contact with some Russian biker club and they not just let him stay at their club for free, they also organized the seals from Vladivostok via plane and picked them up at 2 in the morning. He was not allowed to pay for anything and the guy from Vladivostok, who bought the seals from the local BMW, Dealer went to the Airport to find people who flew close to where the club was. If that is not helpful then I do not know!
It a short version of his story but the message is the same – They are nice people everywhere!
There is an Italian couple in staying in our hotel. They ride with a 1200 GSA, I used to own a big girl like that too. The really nice but I forgot again to ask for their names.

Funny food (It was really surved like this)

 

31.07.2018
At 10:30 we left our camping spot because we were still tiered when we woke at 08:00 am. But we still managed 120 km, partly because we slept so late, partly cause of the bad roads. As we got to Tosontsengel it started to drizzle so we stopped there. It’s a fairly big town for Mongolian standard.
The hotel is okay and after 3 days of no running hot water I REALLY enjoyed a warm shower! We also needed to wash our cloth 😉
Problem was you can feel a small electric current when the boiler is on. So I think I skip the shower tomorrow 😉  Also the view from the toilet is quite good because it has a normal windows with no curtain or something similar. You can see them and they can watch you. No comment!
After some food and some shopping for tomorrow we’re relaxing.

Mongolia – (Takhilt Nuur lake)

 

30.07.2018
The beds where Christof and Max have slept in were quite uncomfortable, my wooden board was okay but as always too short. I talked to Chris and Max and offered them that they could carry on their own but they didn’t want that.
The first 150 km go quickly by cause the road is paved but after that it’s back on sandy something. Shame that my knees still hurt from yesterday otherwise I could have enjoyed the ride more. Except for some deep sandy parts, it was okay today.
Today we have an earlier stop and going to camp right by a lake. Just as we set up camp we have to first three visitors. A guy on a motorbike with two young children comes past to say hello and just after dinner another guy with his partner turns up, says hello and offers us fermented horse milk. Chris and Max take a sip but I decline because of my lactose problem. They offer us the whole bottle but since we don’t want to buy it (I guess) they say goodbye and take off again.
As I was typing this I could a herd of horses galloping by. When I took a look, I could see them going to the lake for a drink. Shame I didn’t have enough time to get my camera ready. That is one of the things I’ll will not forget!

Mongolia – visitors at the lake (Takhilt Nuur)

 

29.07.2018
After a windy night – slept okay but woke often, I have an early start because my shit phone keeps changing the time on me. There are quite e few eagles around which I try to take a video of – we’ll how it turn out.
Because we’re camping next to a hill the sun doesn’t reach as so early. So, I take my chair place it in the sun and close my eyes. Wonderful!

What a fucking whore day!
Right now I hate everything. I’m can’t even say how beautiful the countryside was because I couldn’t take my eyes on second of the fucking “road”.  The speed my friends are traveling in is just too high for me and so I fell twice. The second time quite hard. It’s my fault of course but doesn’t make me feel any better.
On top of that I’ve been eaten alive again by those fucking Mosquitos and I seem to be allergic to them cause most bites swell up quite bad.
So FUCK OFF you fucking fuck day!!!!!
I’m seriously thinking about to carry on by myself so I can ride without the group pressure. And all of that in the country which was / is the main goal of this trip. Not good…
On the way to the hotel we’re having such strong wind that we have to ride at a 70 degree angle. The “hotel” is a dump and I’m using my sleeping bag to sleep in. I’ll talk to my friends tomorrow…

Mongolia

Mongolia

Mongolia

 

28.07.2018
Since we only stayed 1 km away from the border we had a late start. While packing we meet two more bikers from Hungary which must have arrived late last night.
At the border we waited in line but when the two Hungarian bikers drove straight to the front we simply followed 🙂 A good thing as it turns out cause a very nice lorry driver lets us go first.
Again a rather large ( 20 km ) no-man’s-land we have to ride though. The Mongolian border takes even less time and in about 2,5 hours we in Mongolia. Finally here!
The road to Ölgii is mostly tarmacked and nice to ride.
After Ölgii there’s some off-road to ride and a little late we turn off the road to find a camp spot. We manage to find a nice slightly stony spot right by little rocky hill. After we set up our camp and start to cook two guys on a small motorbike (you see them a lot here) come to us. They polite, sit with us and keep looking through some binoculars into the distance.  We offer them some of our Vodka coke mix which they seem to like too 😉 Then one leaves and after a while you can see a herd of wild horses coming towards us. The guy who left with the bike behind them. As soon the horses are with s they catch on, out a saddle on and start riding it. The repeat this with another horse which doesn’t like it at all. Then thy leave us, one on a horse, one on the bike. That is something you do not see every day!

Mongolia – Altai Region

Mongolia – Altai Region

Mongolia – Altai Region

Mongolia – Altai Region

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2 Responses to Mongolia

  1. Ela says:

    Hey Du Reisender!
    Bin mal wieder am stöbern gewesen. Die Bilder sind echt klasse und es freut mich das ihr so viel erlebt und seht.
    Langsam ist Heimreise angesagt?! Dann hoff ich, dass ihr diese auch unbeschadet hinter euch bringt. Danach nach Afrika 😉 ^^
    Gute Fahrt und viele schöne Sternenhimmel 🙂

  2. KH Krebs says:

    Moinsen Ela,
    Ja, es geht leider seit einige Tagen wieder in Richtung Westen. Ich müsste so in ca. 2 Wochen wieder in Hannover sein (sind ja auch noch gute 5500 km) und brauche dann gleich wieder leckeres Brot von meinem Lieblingsbäcker! 😀
    Freut mich, dass die Bilder gefallen!
    Bis die Tage…

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