In Uzbekistan we spend more time than in any other country so far and we visited the 3 main Cities – Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand along the Silk Road. I really enjoyed travelling through Uzbekistan. The people were so friendly, helpful and kind that I’m sure I’ll be back at some time…

After a long and expensive call with the GoDaddy hotline my blog is reachable again. YEAH 🙂
We are all feeling the heat and poor Chris is having stomach trouble. So, we went for a short and slow walk around town. Max needed some copper rings for his bike and after 10 minutes talking to some guys one of them drove us to a place where we could by such things. Well that is a least what we thought. While driving there we almost hat an accident 🙁
He took us to the biggest Tourist site (Bukhara Registan) 😀  I guess they didn’t understand at all 😀

And it doesn’t get any cooler – at 09:00 am 30 degrees.
The ride out of Bukhara was uneventful until we hit the main road.
After a little stop Chris and Janos got flagged down by the Policemen. Chris though he meant the Taxi behind them and carried on but he hadn’t the Taxi 🙂 The Policemen followed them in the Taxi and stopped them after a view Miles. Apparently, they had driven over a red light, problem is there was no traffic light. Straight away they spoke about a $42 fine. Because Max and I drove a little further at the front they hadn’t stopped us.
Nervously they inspected Chris’s helmet camera and took the sd-card out because those fuckers don’t want to be filmed, of course. A third guy in a civil car pulled up and Chris asked if he was also a cop. He answered yes but couldn’t produce his ID when Chris asked for it but responded with fuck fuck.
After a little negotiating the fine had risen to $50. Chris lost his temper because it’s not fun to stand in the bright sun light (36 degrees) with motorcycle gear. He asked for the no form the Germany Embassy and searched for it on his mobile. The Policemen whispered for a moment and then let them go with a warning to be more careful next time.
Oh, the third “Policmen” saluted Chris with Heil Hitler and left :/  What a fucking uneducated prick!
I’m beginning to wonder if there is any Country we are going through that hasn’t got corrupt Policemen…

When we stopped by the main road a young guy come along and asked us many questions. He was well educated especially in history. That makes a nice change and I’m sure he’ll make his way.
On our second stop of the day, we all felt a bit tired, and old guy on a bicycle come along and stated chatting to us. We didn’t understand a word he said but that didn’t stop him. He refused food I offered him but just before he left took a sip of water out of my bottle. Something I hadn’t offerd 😀

The scenery has changed now from a sandy dessert / steppe look to a more hilly and green look.
Our hotel is cool again and we can park bikes inside again. Also, this is the first hotel where you get more than just tea and coffee for drinking at breakfast. They have orange juice –wow 😀
After a nice shower we went to a local shashlik restaurant where I would think not many tourists go. Nice food!
I still can’t log on to my blog. After a chat with a GoDaddy assistant I managed to get a login but I don’t have the password anymore cause over the GoDaddy site I don’t need it. I tried to reset the password but the reset page is just white again. WTF

Bukhara – Chris our German Touri 🙂

Bukhara – Uri Geller was hear too

Bukhara – Shashlik Restaurant (great Lamb)


Bukhara – how many locks do you need?



The view after those 186 stairs

Bukhara – Tree


Bukhara – everywhere are little shops

Bukhara – That’s a big one

Bukhara – Souvenirs souvenirs (Bill Ramsey’s shop?)

Bukhara is a very nice town though a fair bit more touristy and bigger then Khiva. I still prefer Khiva but Bukhara is very nice too. Maybe because of the fact that in Khiva are hardly any tourist because most do not go this far north.
Our host is celebrating tonight and invited us. So around 07:00 pm we’ll get some traditional food – Plov. He is with the police and apparently also a very good cook. The whole family is helping to prepare the food.

Making PLov


Today we had the hottest ride so far. In 39 degrees Celsius you just want to find some shade. But there isn’t a lot of that around. Here and there you can find a little place who sells and sometime even cooks you some food. The place we found just sold water to us. When I asked for food she just wanted the money for the water. Even some truckers got food. That lady, I’m sorry to say, wasn’t even too stupid to put 25000 SOM in the calculator (so I knew what I had to pay). She managed to type 2500 SOM in and didn’t understand when I gave her just that much 😀
For 455 Km there are no petrol stations so we all filled up our canisters and I found out that my one is leaking. So tanks Rotopax!
Max did it again, he found a great hotel in Bukhara. Right in the centre of this very nice City.
In the evening I had one of the best Lamb Shashlik I’ve ever eaten. I believe I could eat my way through Uzbekistan 😉

This is what 40 degrees heat can do to your stuff

After a late (09:00 am) and interesting breakfast we went for a walk around Khiva.
My friends do like their beer but I think 4.1 litre per person is too much 😀  Some guy asked us, what we thought, to take a picture of him and his children but he wanted to take a picture of us with his children. Weird 😀
We climb up 186 flights of stairs and had a good view over Khiva. Because it’s so hot we went back to the hotel. Tonight, we going to get taken to a Restaurant to eat fresh fish. So tomorrow we’re all going to be fine or ill. Our host drove us there and while doing so he drove over several red lights. He just laughed when we made a remarks because his brother work at the police and so nobody is given him a ticket 😀
Apparently the fish from Khiva is the best from all Uzbekistan and gets sold all over the country and I believe him.
This was definitely the best fish I have ever eaten!
I can recommend the B&B Zarfabek in Khiva!

I woke up just before the alarm went off. For breakfast we had again eggs with sausage and some peaches. The ride to Khiva was short and good. At 10:00 am it was already 30 degrees Celsius and when we arrived in Khiva it had risen to 38.
Except for two places there was no shade on the road. You ride for miles and there is nothing just steppe.
Because we have some tough days behind us we’re treating ourselves to a nice hotel within the City walls where we’re going to stay for two days.
Oh, the guys from Estonia we had met a couple of days ago are actually from Israel, only the bikes are from Estonia. I guess we are going to see them all the time cause they’re on a similar schedule.
No Football for us tonight but that’s okay –  well for Jonas and me…

Waving people everywhere

I don’t think I have ever slept on bed this hard but I slept quite well. The breakfast was not that good and took ages just like the food last night.
Frank, the French guy, was putting hi tyre back on his bike. I helped him because he had problems with it.
The Aral Lake Memorial is okay but not that impressive. The Story behind it is very interesting.
Something nobody told us is that there are no ATMs in Uzbekistan, you can only change money at a bank if one is open.
At the end we had to change Dollar at the Bazar 😉 We met a young local guy (Amir) who spoke German and overt us to help.
Max found a great camp spot again. While we put our camp up a local “cowboy” come past with his cows. He waved friendly and carried on.
Again there was no cell service – nice! But also no shade…

The days started with coffee and hot chocolate.
Chris and Jonas had problems with their panniers we stopped for repairs. The repairs took almost 4 hours bur we made it to Yelabad were a lot of bikers meet.
We made while we repaired 5 guys, to French (Frank, ?), two from Estonia (?, ?), one from Poland (?) on a bicycle and another German (Max).
Because of the repairs we didn’t make it to the Aral Lake Memorial, so tomorrow we’ll ride there and maybe all the way to Khiva.

Bike Repairs

Bike Repairs

Bike Repairs

My feet are itching so much that I can’t stand it. So I did what you shouldn’t do – I scratched. Now they just burn which I can take a lot better. Shouldn’t have done that!
The last 80 Km to the border were horrible and great at the same time but I was definitely out of my comfort zone for a while.
Bumps, potholes, sand, mutt and dust so you can’t see the mentioned obstacles.
The border crossing took about 2h. I talked to a guy with gold teeth who shouted to a border guard to let us jump the line, which he did. The border police were very helpful again. But because we were quite late and couldn’t reach a hotel we camped in the middle of nowhere. Chris cooked pasta with sausage and a very nice Italian sauce.

Dusty and bumpy roads

Dusty and bumpy roads

Uzbekistan Border

Uzbekistan Border

Money money money (50€)


Bike silhouette

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1 Response to Uzbekistan

  1. Frank Krause says:

    Hi Karl-Heinz,
    im vergangenen Jahr habe ich ja Usbeskistan besucht und diese 3 tollen Stadte gesehen, cool, ich wünsch dir und deinen Mitfahren eine tolle Reise.

    Grüße aus Stuttgart und Hannover, von Frank

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